Each has its strengths and some have other culinary uses.
Hardnecks have a stalk that stems from the center of the bulb and turns rigid at maturity.
Softnecks stalks have leaves rather than a central stalk.
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Softneck leaves remain soft and flexible at maturity.
If you prefer to grow the garlic you find in the grocery store, you want softneck garlic.
They are commonly sold in stores because of their long shelf life and relatively mild flavor for most recipes.
Hardneck garlic (left) and softneck garlic (right)The Spruce / K. Dave
The strength and character of the flavors differ based on the variety.
Purple Stripes are mild; Porcelains are musky; Rocamboles are hot and spicy.
Hardneck garlic is cold-hardy, able to tolerate overwintering in harsh climates down to zone 0.
The Spruce / K. Dave
If you’re in a transitional zone between both, try planting both kinds.
Hardneck varieties are the best option for Northern gardeners.
This process is called vernalization.
The Spruce / K. Dave
Rocambole is tan or brownish, with 12 cloves per bulb.
Porcelain is satiny white (hence the name) and about four cloves per bulb.
Purple stripes are self explanatory.
The Spruce / K. Dave
The Purple Stripe and Rocambole types are the hardiest.
They are best for gardeners who live in the northeastern U.S. and Canada.
Gardeners who live in milder climates should have good luck with Porcelain varieties.
They also mature more quickly than hardneck varieties.
They don’t form scapes and generally contain several small cloves per bulb.
This tight wrapping helps the cloves preserve their moisture while also preventing disease from getting in.
They can stay fresh and firm for up to 9 months when cured and stored correctly.
So, if you are looking for long-term storage, this jot down is the one to choose.
Usually, hardnecks are planted by mid-October or before the first frost.
you’ve got the option to wait a few more weeks before getting softneck cloves into the ground.
To plant garlic, open a full-grown garlic head and remove the cloves.
Keeping the papery covering intact, plant only the largest, healthiest cloves with the pointy end up.
Mulch the garlic bed with straw, mulch hay, or leaf litter.
Mulching reduces weeds, keeps nutrients and water in the soil, and protects the cloves over the winter.
As temperatures warm in early spring, remove some of the mulch and top-dress with organic compost.
Harvesting, curing, and storage are roughly the same for hardneck and softneck garlic.
Curing garlic allows it to be stored longer.
Large bulbs and bulbs with large cloves generally take longer to cure.
Garlic stores best when it’s cured with its leaves on.
The bulb draws energy from the leaves and roots until all the moisture evaporates.
The leaves also prevent fungi from spoiling the garlic.
It’s dried once the skin shrinks and turns papery.
The roots appear shriveled and feel stiff, and the leaves are entirely browned and dried.
Dirt will crumble off, and loose layers of bulb wrap may flake off.
Keep the nice and neatly packaged bulb whole if you want it to stay fresh for a few months.
It will last only about a week if you break it apart.
Keep it dry, in the dark, and with good air circulation.
A wire mesh basket is ideal.
Do not store garlic in the refrigerator, it can sprout and become bitter.
