But take heartit is almost impossible to kill a mature, overgrown apple tree by pruning it.
However, clearly diseased or damaged branches should be removed whenever you spot them.
Mature apple trees will tell you when they need rigorous pruning because the fruit output begins to diminish.
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Removing suckers and bad wood through heavy pruning stimulates the tree to produce more fruiting spurs.
Pruning also opens up the branches so sunlight and air can reach the ripening fruit.
It is a good idea to thin out some of the remaining immature fruit at that point.
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Pinching off one-third to one-half allows the tree to produce larger apples.
Before Getting Started
ensure your pruning tools are good and sharp before starting.
Struggling to cut with dull tools can lead to accidents on a ladder.
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Removing vs.
Shortening Branches
The pruning technique varies depending on whether you are removing a branch or just shortening it.
Remove Low Branches
Get rid of any branches within about 4 feet of the ground.
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Remove Problem Branches
Now, prune out any downward-facing branches.
They, too, will be shaded and unproductive.
Next, focus on removing any branches that cross or rub against larger branches.
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Remove Competing Main Branches
Step back, and view the tree again.
It should have one main vertical leader or central trunk.
There is nothing wrong with this, but major side branches extending from the leader will have to go.
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Prune them back flush to the main leader.
If a tree is regularly pruned, removing about one-fifth in each session is acceptable.
Inspect the Tree
Finally, double-check that the upper branches are shorter than the lower branches.
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The final result should look like a pyramid with well-spaced horizontal branches.
Kidd’s Orange Red and Fuji are considered some of the easiest apple varieties to grow.
Easy varieties for warmer climates (USDA zone 5-10) are Anna and Beverly Hills.
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Growing Apples in the Home Garden.University of Minnesota Extension.
The Spruce / K. Dave