ozgurcankaya / Getty Images
Sanding cabinets takes the surfaces down to bare wood or scuffs them into paint-ready condition.
For some homeowners, sanding is the one obstacle to getting thecabinets painted.
Yet sanding isn’t always required.
ozgurcankaya / Getty Images
Three materials (tri-sodium phosphate, liquid sander/deglosser, and bonding primer) help you do this.
Relatively safe to use, TSP is a favorite cleaner for wiping down cabinets or trim prior to painting.
As a degreaser, it’s especially useful for tackling embedded grease and skin oils on cabinets.
In terms of strength, liquid sander/deglosser falls mid-point between cleaners and paint strippers.
It is not meant to be used as a cleaner because it permanently alters the surface.
At the same time, it is not a paint stripper since it cannot loosen paint.
Instead, the uppermost layer of the paint or coating is deglossed and dulled.
Bonding Primer
Primeris mandatory on cabinets.
Universal primers meant for walls don’t provide enough adhesion for cabinets.
Look for a primer with “bonding” in its name.
It should be multi-surface or for wood.
Do not use a bonding primer for concrete, masonry, or metal.
Most cabinet paints are satin or semi-gloss.
Cover and tape plastic sheeting on the ground.
Folding tables covered in plastic or plywood sheets across sawhorses work well as elevated painting surfaces.
Remove the Hardware
Remove the cabinet door and drawer pulls and other hardware, except for hinges.
Remove pulls from the back side with a Phillips head screwdriver.
Remove bumpers from inside cabinet doors and drawer fronts with a putty knife.
Switching pieces can result in misalignment.
Place hardware in individual plastic bags and write the location on the bag with an indelible marker.
When removing a door or drawer front.
write the location on a strip of painter’s tape and stick the tape to the item.
Older hinges may require a flat-head screwdriver.
Many cabinets use two-part European or concealed hinges.
Some Euro-style hinges can be removed without a screwdriver.
The back part of the hinge flips forward, detaching the cabinet from the box.
Remove the drawer from the cabinet and take out all items.
Look behind the front of the drawer.
Unscrew the screws and bag them.
Label and remove each drawer front.
Break up dried food particles with warm water, mild soap, and a non-metallic scouring pad.
Pay special attention to around cabinet pulls and other areas with embedded oil and dirt from touching.
It’s often faster to scuff off dried particles or hardened grease with 220-grit sandpaper.
Tape the walls around wall cabinets and base cabinets.
Prepare Items for Painting
Set out cabinet doors and drawer fronts in the work area.
It’s helpful to rest the items on painter’s pyramidssmall plastic tripods that elevate the items.
The optimal temperature for painting is generally between 50 and 90F.
Discard cloths as necessary.
Use the foam roller on flat surfaces.
Inside the home, use the 4-inch foam roller on the large sides of the cabinets.
Switch to the 2-inch foam roller for face frames.
Bonding primers have adhesion recoat time limits.
Wait at least two hours between coats.
Proper cleaning, deglossing, and using good-quality cabinet paint are key topainting cabinetswithout sanding.
If you don’t sand cabinets before painting, at worst the paint will chip or peel.
At best, the paint will remain solid and durable for years.
You’re also able to access all sides of the doors and drawer fronts when they are removed.
Professional painters routinely paint kitchen and bathroom cabinets, so most can help with this key in of project.
