It’s a unique, layered look that’s stately and calming.
The raised vertical battens catch natural light and cast ever-changing shadows as the day progresses.
Learn an easy DIY way to build a board and battenhalf wallby applying battens directly to thedrywall.
Kate Kunz / Getty Images
What Is Board and Batten?
Intervening battens are added to complete the look but are not functional.
An easier method, though, is to attach the battens directly to the drywall.
The look is the same as if you had installed backer boards.
you’re able to add backer boards if you like.
Use sheets of 4-foot by 8-foot panel board (1/8-inch-thick) as backers.
The space between the battens is 19 inches (22-1/2 minus 3-1/2).
Remove the Baseboard
Force the prybar behind the baseboard, starting at one end of the baseboard.
Lay a scrap piece of wood behind the back of the prybar where it contacts the wall.
Gently pry back the baseboard until it detaches from the wall.
Patch holes by spreading joint compound with a drywall knife or a putty knife.
Sand the Patched Areas
Let thedrywall patches dryfor about two hours.
Sand the dry joint compound smooth with a foam sanding block.
Mix a little water into the joint compound until it reaches the consistency of yogurt.
Identify the Studs
Find the studsin the wall with thestud finder.
Mark the studs with a light pencil mark or a piece of tape.
Studs are usually every 16 inches apart when measured from center to center.
Some interior walls may have studs spaced every 24 inches.
Nail the board to the studs with the brad gun.
The board should remain 1/4-inch above the floor.
Adjust for floor level variations by installing the baseboard level with the help of the bubble level.
Tip
Scarf joints hold together better than butt (90-degree) joints.
To create a scarf joint, cut each end of adjacent boards on the miter saw at 45 degrees.
Attach end to end at opposite angles.
Cut the Battens
Cut the batten boards at 48 inches on theelectric miter saw.
Tape them against the wall temporarily with painter’s tape.
Then, rest another one-by-four horizontally on top of the two vertical pieces as the top rail.
set up the Top Rail
Nail the top rail in place with the electric brad gun.
Drive the brads into studs.
Attach one batten at the end of the wall, followed by several brads.
Repeat on the other end of the wall.
Remember to measure starting at the center of one of the end battens.
If you add backer boards, see to it that a batten falls over every seam between boards.
implement the Rest of the Battens
implement the intervening battens at the marked center locations.
Add glue to the back of each batten.
This creates a smooth look, as if the battens and the wall are a cohesive unit.
Smooth down with the putty knife.
To complete the look of a cohesive unit, paint all elements the same color.
If you use backer boards, note that backer boards make the wall thicker.
A board and batten half wall should reachthe wall’s halfway point(48 inches) or higher.
One batten falls on this middle position.
Each half then gets divided into half and so on, until you reach the desired batten spacing.
Remember that the center point of each end batten starts 1-3/4 inches inward.
you’ve got the option to board and batten one wall instead of the entire room.
